It's Sunday evening and a week ago today we were flying home. It's time to put down my thoughts about what we saw while my memory is still fresh. You may be daunted by the length of this post and I don't blame you. I'm not including photos here but you can see the ones I took on my
Flickr account. I've included additional information on some of the photos but if you use the slideshow option you won't see those comments.
More than a year ago we started thinking about a trip to the Czech Republic including the area where Ray's great grandparents were born and lived until they married and moved to the United States. Family folklore says that Veronika lived in a castle and fell in love with the gardener. The family didn't approve of the marriage and thus they left for America. Other family members have researched the archives and the date of their arrival in the U.S. eventually settling in Wisconsin.
Last spring we purchased airline tickets and reserved a rental car and a room in the Hotel U Kapličky in Písek. We also purchased carry-on luggage for the trip as we had sold our luggage when we downsized and moved to Copper Chase.
On Monday, September 9 our adventure began as we drove to the Indianapolis airport for a 3 p.m. flight to Philadelphia. We made our way to the international departure terminal in Philly and were airborne shortly after 6:30 for the flight to Prague. I watched two or three movies on the flight and tried to get some sleep. We landed at 9:15 a.m. and after picking up our luggage found the Hertz rental where we signed the papers for a Škoda, a car manufactured in the Czech Republic.
The drive to Písek was easy on a four-lane highway most of the way. As we neared the city, we realized we didn't have directions to the hotel and only had an address. After asking for directions twice, we reached the hotel and checked in. The weather was beautiful as it was during our entire stay. Not having had much sleep we had to keep moving or we'd fall asleep so we walked to the city center of Písek which was about a 10-15 minute walk.
As we approached the river we recognized the Old Stone Bridge which is for pedestrians only. Ray stopped in a bank and changed dollars into the local currency. During our walk, we noticed children with backpacks and young mothers pushing strollers. We returned to the hotel for an early evening meal. Visa cards are welcome most anywhere but we learned that only cash can be used for tipping. We finally succumbed to the lack of sleep and had lights out at 7 p.m.
The next morning we enjoyed the first of complimentary breakfasts at the hotel. Several options were available: scrambled egg with pieces of bacon and ham, omelet, fried egg, or waffle (more like a crepe). In addition cereal, yogurt, bread, and sausages were part of the buffet.
We drove to Orlik using Google Maps as our navigation device. We asked once and then finally spotted the sign for Orlik Castle. The tour was narrated in the Czech language but we were given English transcripts to follow as we walked the halls of the castle. In one hallway there were several dozen or more rifles on display. No photos allowed to my chagrin. There was also a large display of antlers with the name of the hunter, the weight of the deer and date.
Next, we planned to drive to nearby Třešnĕ but an hour later we realized we had gone in the wrong direction. We stopped at a gasoline station and purchased sandwiches enjoying them on the picnic table behind the station. As navigator, I was responsible for the error but we decided to return to the hotel rather than retrace our route. We had several more days and would find the little town on another day.
On Thursday we headed for another castle. As we neared Hluboká Castle, we paid for parking as we also had at Orlik Castle and walked a good distance up the hill to the castle. Hluboká Castle is a National Cultural Monument and is considered one of the most beautiful castles in the Czech Republic. We realized there were several large tour groups ahead of us but the wait wasn't long before our tour commenced. As the day before, we had transcripts in English. We learned from the script that Princess Eleonora influenced much of the castle's appearance and decorations. She and her husband, Prince Jan Adolph II Schwarzenberg, had traveled to the coronation of Queen Victoria in 1838. The walls and ceilings of the interior rooms are decorated with woodcarvings and special wood. We saw many large portraits on the walls, beautiful chandeliers, stained glass, pottery, and furnishings. Quite impressive. Also, many antlers decorated the outside walls and it seems that hunting was quite the sport.
We left the castle and headed to Borovany listed as Matthias Cihlar's birthplace. He's Ray's great grandfather. It is a small village or hamlet with a population of about 225 and is built on a hill with narrow streets that were hard to traverse. We didn't stay and drove to Bernatice where we stopped to spend some time walking the streets and visiting two grocery stores. Bernatice has about 1,300 residents (2008) and is listed on Matthias Cihlar's 1870 passport as his hometown.
On our drive back to Písek we stopped at a roadside restaurant where we ordered a chicken meal that was delicious. When it was time to pay with our Visa card, we learned that they only accepted cash, but the waitress walked Ray to the attached service station to scan our card there and pay for our meal. A nice arrangement for us and for them too.
On Friday we started out for the little village where Ray's great grandmother was born. Google maps gave us the direction but when we neared the road leading off the highway, there was no highway sign for the little town less than a mile off the main highway but we made the turn and found the little village. Třešně according to one source had about 125 residents in 2006. We drove a short distance and were soon outside the village. Turning around we took a different fork in the road and found ourselves at a Holstein dairy operation. Ray spoke to a woman who was working there but she couldn't speak English and went to find a colleague. He tried to help especially when we had the number of the farm where Veronika Hradek grew up. However, we weren't successful in locating any reference to where Veronika might have lived in the 1800s. As we left we noticed a small playground for the children of the community and a small chapel. We saw many similar chapels or maybe they are better classified as shrines. They aren't used for worship services as there are no benches but often have a sculpture, altar or other decoration.
Back again in Písek, we decided to walk to the city center in search of something for lunch and enjoyed our meal in an outdoor cafe. After wandering for a while and taking more pictures, we were on the road again to another castle. Actually, there are quite a few in the surrounding area. We relied on Google maps again and were directed pretty close to the castle, but there was no way to enter the castle as it was on the opposite side of a river with no bridges nearby. Not to be daunted we finally figured out how to get to the site of Castle Zvíkov. This castle is located about 9 miles north of Písek at the junction of two rivers. According to one source, this castle is one of the most important early Gothic castles and its earliest written mention is in the year 1234. Located on a high point above the two rivers we had fantastic views and enjoyed a self-guided tour. The castle is remarkably well preserved. It was easily defended and survived assaults because of its thick walls and location high above the rivers.
Saturday would be our last day in the Republic and we decided to find overnight accommodations nearer the airport rather than stay in Písek which was about a 90-minute drive. With a few extra hours available for touring we decided to make our way to Kuntá Hora, a bit more than a 2-hour drive from Písek with plenty of time to get to the hotel we had booked. I didn't do a great job of navigation because the estimated 2-hour trip took more than three hours. We stopped at least once for directions but eventually found the church and parked on the street about a block or two away. The afternoon was beautiful and many others were also visiting. We purchased tickets and entered the Ossuary and were told we could take photos as long as we didn't use flash.
I gleaned some of the following commentaries from a website. The Sedlec Ossuary is not spectacular. It is a small chapel located in Sedlec in the suburbs of Kuntá Hora. You would think that it is just an average old medieval gothic church.
When entering you soon realize why it is amazing and unique. The Sedlec Ossuary is artistically decorated with more than 40,000 human skeletons and why it is known as the Church of Bones or the Bone Church.
There is a big chandelier of bones that contains at least one of every human bone. Another impressive artwork is the coat-of-arms of the Schwarzenberg family that is also made of human bones. [Note: we heard about the Schwarzenberg family multiple times during our trip.]
How did all the bones end up in a small chapel? It goes back to 1278 when the King of Bohemia sent the abbot of the Sedlec Cistercian Monastery to Jerusalem. When the abbot came back he brought a jar of soil from Golgotha (known as the "Holy Soil"). Soon people desired to be buried in Sedlec and the cemetery was expanded.
Many of the bones are of 40,000 people who died of the plague in 1318 and during the Hussite wars in the 15th century. They were originally buried at the church cemetery. The cemetery was closed at the end of the 15th century and the exhumed bones were transferred to the chapel and piled into pyramids. In 1870, František Rint of Česká Skalice arranged the bones and skulls into creative decorations that include bells, the above-mentioned Schwarzenberg coat-of-arms, and a chandelier.
I took quite a few photos and then we were on our way to our overnight stay in Hotel Fontana about 40-minutes from Prague's airport. We managed to find our way there with at least one stop to ask directions. We checked in and then looked for a restaurant and found Milano Pizzeria and ordered what we thought was a pepperoni pizza. It was actually a pepper pizza with lots of green, red and yellow peppers. The word "pepperoni" didn't translate!
With still some time to spare I looked up the possibility of finding a geocache if there was one nearby. There were two within walking distance and we strolled to the site but didn't find the cache. Clues were not in English but I'm pretty sure we were in the right area. The same for the second one which was not much further away. The area we stayed in was mostly residential and quiet for a Saturday night.
On Sunday morning without much traffic on the major highways, we headed toward the airport. For some odd reason, the GPS wasn't working and Ray kept heading north and west. We knew we had to cross the Vltava River and were successful. We stopped one time and a local lady indicated we were heading in the right direction and said to keep going "Up, Up, Up" and eventually we saw a road sign for the airport. I think we witnessed a miracle. When we started out in the morning we had no directions to the airport, but we made it with plenty of time to spare.
Our departure was delayed by a problem with the cargo door, but eventually, we were on our way enjoying a nice meal, finishing a book, and watching more movies on the 10-hour flight. We landed in Philly and showed our passports, standing in a long line that moved rather quickly and then in another line to go through security for our flight to Indy. We arrived back home at about 9:30 p.m. (3:30 a.m. in Prague) and were happy to be home in our own bed.